New Cannondaler from NEPA

[92 TSi AWD]

Hi, my name is Mike. I live in NEPA. Ive been into ATV's/Dirtbikes for about 10 years (im 26 yrs old). I have a bunch of toys such as an 06 YFZ450, 04 DS650 Baja X, 02 YZ426F, 89 RM 250 that was completely redone for my senior project back in HS, and now an 02 Cannibal. Im new to the Cannondale scene so I'll have alot of questions. I have an ad in the WTB section for a bunch of parts that I need so feel free to check that out.

Im also into Mitsubishi or Mitsubishi powered vehicles. I have a bunch of those as well. If anyone has any questions about those, I could probably help out.

Im looking forward to posting more on here and obtaining the knowledge necessary to actually get these Cannondales running right.


-Mike

[RallyX]

Welcome to the forums. Your username caught my eye when I saw "AWD" and I briefly thought another Subaru fan

I assume you are aware there are some basic motor issues and solutions required to make the C'dale reliable.

[92 TSi AWD]

Yea ive been doing alot of research on these things for the past few weeks. Mine already has the aluminum oil pump gears. How do I tell the difference between the stock, and aluminum valve cover? Fortunately, my rod end crank bearing seems to be in excellent shape, although I will be inspecting it anyways. Also will be installing new crank bearings while im in there.

[Kuma]

I know that this is going to end up being a dumb questin, but where is NEPA? is that North East Pennsylvania?

[92 TSi AWD]

That would be correct. Its not the greatest place I suppose but theres a good amount of nice riding areas and we have alot of the stuff you would find in the big cities.

[Ron89]

Lets see some pics!

[PRO FLO]

I have the same project going on. My bike has about 30hrs on it and the rod is worn from the oversized bearing cage Falicon used. Throw away the stock rod bearing even if everything looks good. I build cranks every day and this one happens to be mine and its one of the earlier cranks that didn't shake so bad that the crank plate bolts would come out and the flywheels would crack. You must take the rank apart and not just check for play. One other think to check is the oil passage through the crank pin must line up. You can find most of this info over and over. Also chase theads and Locktite 271 on crank plate bolts. Press back together, true to .0005" and balance if you have the extra $150.00 Mine is getting a 1mm longer rod, balance, piston mods, port work, degree cams, throttle body mod, and air filter mod. I will post the good and the bad.